The combination of distance , altitude, remoteness and weather makes this a tough journey, and when trekking fees were set as US$200 a night, it suffered a sharp decline in the number of trekkers attempting it. Even though there are reduced rates for long treks, many baulk at a 25-day trek costing US$ 4280.
If you plan to trek this route, double check your emergency evacuation insurance(p259). If you get into Lunana and snow blocks the passes, the only way out is by Helicopter, an expensive way to finish an already expensive trek. Another obstacle that often hampers this trek bridges in remote regions that get washed away by deluges.
The Snowman trek is frequently closed because of snow, and is impossible to undertake during winter. The season for this trek is generally considered to be from the late September to mid-October. Don’t plan a summer trek; this is a miserable place to be during the monsoon.
This classic trek follows the Jhomolhari and Laya-Gasa treks to Laya. Many walking days can be saved by starting in Tashithang and trekking north up the Mo Chhu, following the Laya-Gasa trek in reverse.
DAYS 1 to 5: DRUKGYEL DZONG TO LINGZHI
Follow Days 1 to 5 of the Jhomolhari trek (p153).
DAYS 6 to 10 : LINGZHI TO LAYA
Follow days 6 to 10 of Laya-Gasa trek (p159).
DAY 11: REST & ACCLIMATISATION DAY IN LAYA
If you have trekked from Drukgyel Dzong you should spend a day recuperating in Laya preparing for the rigours ahead. If you’ve trekked from Tashithang, you should also walk up to Laya to acclimatise. The army post below Laya has a radio; you will need to send a runner here with a message in an emergency.
DAY 12: LAYA TO RODOPHU
19KM/ 6-8 HOURS/ 1030M ASCENT, 70M DESCENT
The trek leads down to the Lunana trial junction, then climbs for 40 minutes to a hilltop with good views over the Mo Chhu and the Rhodo Chhu. It continues up the Rhodo Chhu valley, first through mixed conifers, then through rhododendron, above the tree line. Atop a large rock slide, there is a view of the glacial valley and massive glacier on Tsenda Kang (7100m). The Rodophu camp is just beyond a wooden bridge across the Rhodo Chhu at 4160m.
If you’re acclimatising here for a day, consider a short 2km hike up the valley to a knoll with excellent views of the valley and mountains, continuing to the base of the glacier. Another option is to follow a small trial starting about 500m upstream from camp and up the hill to the north, ending in a small yak pasture with a hut at 4500m.
DAY 13: RODOPHU TO NARETHANG
17KM / 4-6 HOURS / 720M ASCENT
The path crosses the wooden bridge and follows the river for 20 minutes through rhododendron shrubs before turning right up the hill. Climb to a high open valley at 4600m and then through meadows to Tsomo La (4900m), which offers good views towards the Tibet border and Jhomolhari. Next up is a flat, barren plateau at around 5000m with yak trails crisscrossing everywhere- your guide should know the way. The camp is at Narethang (4900m), below the 6395m peak of Gangla Karchung.
DAY 14: NARETHANG TO TARINA
18KM/ 7-8 HOURS/ 270M ASCENT, 1200M DESCENT
It’s a one-hour climb to the 5120m Gangla Karchung La, with Kang Bum (6526m) to west and Tsenda Kang, Teri Gang (7300m) and Jejekangphu Gang (7100m) due north. The path descends along a large moraine to the edge of a near-vertical wall with breathtaking views. A massive glacier descends from Teri Gang to two deep turquoise lakes at its foot, 1km below you. The glacial lake to the left burst through its dam in early 1960s, causing widespread damage downstream, and partially destroying Punakha Dzong.
The path now becomes very steep at it descends into the valley. When wet, this stretch can be rather nasty, with lots of roots and slippery mud. At the base of the U-shaped valley, the trail turns right, following the Tang Chhu downstream. There are several good campsites along the river, both before and after the trail crosses the river at Tarina.
DAY 15: TARINA TO WOCHE
17KM/ 6-7 HOURS/ 275 ASCENT, 330M DESCENT
The walk leads through conifers down the Tang Chhu on river left, passing some impressive waterfalls. The trail climbs gently as out of the valley past several huge landslides, and eventually climbs steeply to the north-east into the high side valley of Woche. The village in the Lunana region, Woche is a small settlement of five houses at 3940m.
Looking up the valley you can see the following day’s route to Lhedi. There have been reports of theft here; keep all you gear safely inside your tent.
DAY 16: WOCHE TO LHEDI
17KM/ 6-7 HOURS/ 980M ASCENT, 950M DESCENT
The trail Climbs the Wochey valley, crossing a stream and going over a moraine before descending to a wooden bridge across the Woche Chu. It then climbs on a wide trail past a clear lake to Keche La(4650m), with excellent views of the surrounding mountains including Jejekhangphu Gang’s triple peak, the source of the Woche Chhu.
The route now descends into the Pho Chhu valley and reaches Thaga village(4050m). Dropping towards the Pho Chhu, the path then turns northeast towards Lhedi. Passing a few scattered settlements and crossing below a waterfall on a wooden bridge, the trial descends to the banks of the Pho chu, continuing along the river bed to Lhedi at 3700m.
DAY17: LHEDI TO THAZA
17KM/4-5 HOURS/400M ASCENT
The trails follows the north ban of the pho chhu past several small farms. Floods have destroyed parts of the trail so a temporary path winds its way among boulders in the river bed. Around lunchtime the trail passes Chozo village at 4090m, with a functional dzong.
DAY18: REST DAY IN THANZA
Schedule a rest day here. This is as far as yak drivers from Laya go, and it takes time to round up yaks for the rest of the trek. Capitalize on the day by exploring the villages and the glacial lakes up the valley. The closest lake, Raphstreng Tsho is 100m deep.
DAY19: THANZA TO DANJI
8KM/3-4 HOURS/80M ASCENT
If you’re feeling fit, you can hike to tshochena in one day, but it’s a long, hard walk at high altitude and is best split into two parts.
Climbing to a large boulder on the hill south of the village, trail turns east up a side valley. After a couple of hours of easy walking, the trail enters Danji, a yak meadow with some herders’ huts. It’s an excellent camp, with blue sheep often grazing above and occasionally walking into camp.
DAY20: DANJI TO TSHOCHENA
12KM/5-6 HOURS/490M ASCENT, 240M DESCENT
From the junction near camp, the trail up the valley leads to Gangkhar Puensum base camp and Bumthang. The path to the end of the trek crosses the creek and leads up a rocky side valley – a long climb across several false summits to Jaza La at 5150m, with views of mountains in all directions. From the pass, the path descends between snow covered peaks past a string of small lakes. The camp is near the shore of Tshochena at 4970m. This is the first of two nights’ camping above 4900m.
DAY21: TSHOCHENA TO JICHU DRAMO
14KM/4-5 HOURS/230M ASCENT, 140M DESCENT
The trail follows the shore of the blue-green lake before climbing to a ridge at 5100m, with a 360 degree panorama of snowy peaks. Far below, the Pho Chhu descends towards Punakha. The road and microwave tower at Dochu La are visible in distance.
The path makes several ups and downs over small rounded hill, but the altitude can slow you down. Past a glacial lake before Loju La at 5140m, many trails wander around high altitude yak pastures and it’s easy to wander astray. The correct oath is across a small saddle at 5100m into a wide glacial valley, and then down to the camp at Jichu Dramo(5050m), a small pasture on the east of the valley.
DAY 22: JICHU DRAMO TO CHUKARPO
18km/5-6OURS/320M ASCENT, 730 M DESCENTS
The trail climbs through a moraine to the picturesque Rinchen Zoe La (5320m), dividing the Pho Chhu and Mangde Chhu drainages. Rinchen zoe peak (5650m) towers above, Gangkhar Puensum is visible in the east, while the Thampe Chhu valley stretches below the south.
Descending into a broad, marshy valley with a string of lakes, the trail follows the left (east) side of the valley/ Eventually, it descends steeply down the face of a oraine to a yak pasture in the upper reached of the Thampe Chhu. Cross to the west bank (river right) here, as there is no bridge further down. The vegetation begins to thicken, and consists of rhododendron and juniper. The camp is a couple of hours away at Chukarpo(4600m); a better site sits an hour ahead at Thongsa Thang(4400m).
DAY23: CHUKARPO TO THAMPE TSHO
15KM/5-6HOURS/400M ASCENT, 640 M DESCENTS
Descend along the right bank of the river until you reach a yak pasture at Gala Pang Chhu (4010m), from here, the path begins to climb steeply through junipers and silver firs towards Thampe Tsho. The path generally follows a stream to the beautiful, clear turquoise lake, set in a bowl and surrounded by steep mountain walls. The camp is at the far end of the lake at 4300m.
DAY 24: THAMPE TSHO TO MAUROTHANG
14KM/ HOURS/ 280M ASCENT, 1020M DESCENT
The trail climbs steeply to Thampe La at 4600m. You may see blue sheep high on the slopes above the trail.
The path descends to Om Tsho, a sacred site where Pema Lingpa found a number of terma (sacred texts and artifacts). The path skirts the Northwestern shore of the lake before crossing its outlet, marked by prayer flags, and then drops steeply past a water fall to a smaller lake, about 100m lower.
From the second lake to the head water of the Nikka Chhu is a descent so steep that even yaks are reluctant to come down this stretch. The path eventually levels out, following the left bank of the Nikka Chhu. After about 2km, it reaches a large open glade near the confluence of a major tributary coming from the east. A wooden bridge crosses the Nikka Chhu to river right, where a broad path leads through mixed forest to Maurothang (3610m), a large clearing by the river besides a few herders’ huts.
DAY25: MAUROTHANG TO SEPHU
18KM/ 5-6HOURS/ 990M DESCENT
If horses are not available at Maurothang, your guide will probably send someone ahed to arrange for them further down. Yaks cannot walk all the way to the road because of the low altitude and the many cows in the area.
A well-used trail continues down the west side of the Nikka Chhu for about 30 minutesbefore crosiing to the east bank into a mixed deciduous and bamboo forest. It descends gradually through forests and pastures, emerging onto a large grassy area overlooking the road and sephu village. There are many confusing trails here; look for a large track about 25m above the river and you will soon pass a large suspension bridge over the Nikka Chhu, which you shouldn’t cross. Soon the trails turn into a narrow tractor road at sephu, next to the Nikka Chhubridge at 2600m, marked by shops and a small restaurant.