This trek takes you into remote and isolated high country, introducing you to the unusual culture of the Layap community and allowing you to cross paths with takins. If you’re lucky, you might also spot the exotic blue poppy, Bhutan’s national flower. The natural hot springs in Gasa, a further attraction on this trek, were washed away by heavy rains in mid-2009. However, don’t let that dampen your spirits, the rest of the trek remains eminently enjoyable.
The trek begins in the Paro valley and follows the same route as the Jhomolhari trek as far as Lingzhi, before heading north into the highlands. Snow can sometimes close the high passes, but they are generally open from April to June and mid-September to mid-November. The best trekking month in the Laya region is April.
Day 1-5: Drukgyel Dzong to Lingzhi
Follow days 1 to 5 of the Jhomolhari trek
Day 6: Lingzhi to Chebisa
10km/ 5-6hours/280m Ascent, 410m Descent
Cross the stream below the Chha shi Thang camp on a wooden bridge and climb up the opposite side to a chorten below Lingzhi Dzong, sitting at 4220m atop a ridge and accessible via a diversion from the trail. Also known as the Yugyel Dzong, it was built to control trade route between Punakha and the Tibetan town of Gyantse.
Walk down from the Dzong and rejoin the lower trail leading into Lingzhi village, hidden in a valley formed by the ridge. Wheat and barley fields carpet the upper part of the side valley. The trail crosses the lower part, dotted by a few houses, a school and post office (with telephone) at 4080m. The Lingzhi region has a wide variety of herbs, many of medicinal value. The National Institute of Traditional Medicine in Thimphu has an herb-collecting and drying project here.
About one hour from Lingzhi, the trail turns into a side valley past a cairn and prayer flags on a ridge at 4140m. It then makes a long gradual descent to Goyul (3870m), a cluster of unusual stone houses by a stream, with dramatic rock walls towering above. Leaving Goyul, the trail climbs for an hour to a chorten. A short descent leads into the spectacular Chebisa Valley, campsite is on a meadow opposite Chebisa (3880m). Upstream of the camp is the village of Chobiso.
Day 7: Chebisa to Shomuthang
27km/ 6-7 hours / 890m Ascent, 540m Decent
Start out by climbing the ridge behind Chebisa, and then tacking a long, steep ascent up a featureless slope. There are large herds of blue sheep living in the rocks above. Watch for bearded vultures and Himalayan griffons flying overhead. At about 4410m the trail levels out and traverses to Gogu La (4440m), before crossing a ridge and descending into a side valley through rhododendrons.
Descend to a stream at 4170m, and then climb over a small ridge at 4210m and descends on a muddy path into the main Jholethang Chhu valley, in a deep forest of fir and birch. There’s little climb over the side of the valley and down to Shakshepasa (3980m), the side of helipad, marked by a big H. Below there’s a marsh and a messy stream crossing, with a good lunch spot on the other side.
The trail now goes steeply up the northern side of the valley , leveling out about 4200m, passing a couple of herders’ huts and traversing high above the valley floor on river right to Chachim , a yak pasture at 4260m. The camp is in a cluster of brush beside a stream at the base of the valley , at Shomuthang (4220m).
Day 8: Shomuthang to Robluthang
28km/ 6-7 hours / 700m Ascent, 760m Decent
The trail climbs up the valley, starting on river right, crossing to the river left and then crossing to river left and then crossing back again at 4360m. Edelweiss abounds along the trail; the snow peak visible to the is Kang Bum (6526m). Climb out of the valley through desolate country to Jhari La (4750m), about two hours from camp. North of the pass, the trail switchbacks down to a little stream at 4490m, then becomes a rough, rocky route through rhododendrons on the stream’s left. Follow the stream gentky down hill through bushes on river left as it makes its way to the main valley. It’s a gradual descent to a meadow by the Jholethang Chhu at 3990m, which you cross on a log bridge about 1km upstream.
There is a camp called Tsheri Jathang by the river. Herds of takin migrate to this valley in summer and remain here for about four months. Takins are easily disturbed by the presence of other animals, including humans. Sometimes. It might be necessary to take a one-hour diversion, in order to leave the beasts undisturbed. The valley has been declared a special takin sanctuary and yak herders have agreed not to graze their animals in the valley while takins are here.
The trail climbs steeply on the northern side to a crest at about 4150m. It then traverses into a side valley past a tiny lake. There are good camping places in a rocky meadow named Roblutang at 4160m.
DAY 9: ROBLUTHANG TO LIMITHANG
19KM/ 6-7 HOURS / 850M ASCENT, 870M DECENT
Climb past the remnants of a brurned forest and up the hillside through some boggy patches. Switchback to a shelf at 4390m, before turning into another large glacial side valley. Follow a stream for a while, crossing to river right on an icy log bridge at 4470m, then climb onto a moraine and traverse past lots of marmots holes. You may be able to spot blue sheep high on the slopes to the north before the trail crosses back to stream left.
It’s a tough climb from here to the pass at Sinche La (5005m), passing a false summit with a cairn. The trail levels out a little before reaching the cairns and prayers flags on the pass, with the snow-covered peak of Gangchhenta filling the northern horizon.
The descent is on rough , rocky tail that follows a moraine into another glacial valley. Eventually you arrive at the Kango Chhu, a stream below a terminal moraine that forms the end of another valley to the west.
Cross the Kango Chhu to river left on a small log bridge at 4470m. A short distance beyond is a yak pasture and camping spot next to a huge rock. However, it’s best to continue to Limithang to camp. Beyond an uninhabited stone house, the trail descends steeply to the valley floor. Its switchbacks down with the terminal moraine looming above, crossing the Kango Chhu on a bridge at 4260m. After a short climb through the rhododendrons, the trail levels out on a plateau above the Zamdo Nangri Chhu. It’s then a short walk through a cedar forest interspersed with small meadows to Limithang (4140m), a lovely campsite in a big meadow by the river. Gangchhenta towers over the campsite in the distance.
DAY 10: LIMITHANG TO LAYA
10KM/4-5 HOURS/60M ASCENT, 340M DESCENT
After 20 minutes of walking, the trail crosses to river left and enters a deep cedar forest, crossing several muddy side streams. Ahead, there’s herder’s hut of stone where the vegetation changes to fir trees draped with lichen.
DAY 11: LAYA TO KOINA
Layaps are not noted for their reliability and punctuality, so horses may arrive late. Below the village, the trail drops back to the river. The trail exits the village through a Khonying (arch chorten), then passes another chorten at Taje-kha as it descends on a muddy trail to a stream.
There is an alternative camping place on a plateau at 3590m, next to the large Togtsherkhagi Chhu. Cross the river on a wooden bridge and climb to the stone buildings of the army camp. There’s a radio station here, and a checkpoint where your names will be registered.
The route now follows the Mo Chhu downstream to Tashithang. About 30 minutes from the army post in an inconspicuous trail junction at 3340m, where the route for the snowman trek leads uphill on a tiny path. The route to Gasa keeps going down stream on a muddy trail. Soon, it turns a corner into a side valley before crossing the Bahitung Chhu at 3290m, the lunch spot for the day.
Post meal, the trail trudges along the Mo Chhu to an overhanging rock forming a cave, then crosses to river right at 3240m on a cantilever bridge. The canyon closes in, and the trail makes several climbs over side ridges while making its way downstream. Beyond, another cave formed by a large overhanging rock is a long steep climb, cresting on a ridge at 3390m. It’s a 150m descent to a clear side stream, and the trail then wanders up and down near the river, before climbing once again to Kohi La at 3300m.
The muddy trail stays high for about 30 minutes until it reaches a stone staircase, where it turns into a side valley, before dropping to the Koina Chhu. Welcome to Koina (3050m), a muddy bog in the forest filled with ankle-deep sludge. This is the worst camp on the whole trek and perhaps the most unpleasant camp in all of the Himalayas. A new – and considerably drier – camp has recently been identified about two hours ahead at Chempsa (3700m). Feel free to use it instead.
DAY 12: KOINA TO GASA
Today’s walk sees you tackling one last obstacle on this trek – the Bari La.
Cross the bridge at Koina and start up the hill. Parts of the trail are so muddy that logs have been placed to form little bridges. The muddy trail keeps going through a deep forest of fir for almost three hours, until you reach a small rock cairn and a few prayer flags atop Bari La (3900m). Then it’s a reasonably level walk to another chorten.
The route then begins to descend, sometimes steeply, through a bamboo forest to a stream. At 3080m it rounds a corner where you can finally see Gasa Dzong on the opposite side of a large wooded side valley. The trail descends past an old chorten, then crosses a ridge into a big side valley. It drops and crosses a large stream at 2780m, then traverses along the side of the valley to four chortens on the ridge at 2810m.
The chortens mark the southern boundary of Gasa town (2770m). The trail traverses above the football and archery ground, past several small teashops, then intersects Gasa’s main street. Trek downhill to the bazaar, with about nine shops and a police checkpoint. The police post checks permits, providing a perfect excuse to stop for a soft drink or beer at one of the shops.
You must camp in a field near the town – the alternative campsite 1 and half hours downhill at the tsachhu (hot spring) has become unusable since heavy rains washed away the springs in 2009. See Day 1 of Gasa Hot Spring trek (p164) for details of the site. If it is raining, the remainder of this trek is perfect country in which to closely study how leeches become attached to humans.
DAY13: GASA TO DAMJI
Follow the trail generally south, passing a few houses and mani walls, as it desends to the primary branch of the Mo Chhu, flowing in through the mountains from Lingzhi to join the other branch of the Mo Chhu that flows from Gasa. Look back for a good view of the Dzong that sits on top of the hill. Be careful as you follow this trail; near a chorten there is a fork where a second trail leads steeply downhill to the hot spring. The trail towards Damji goes straight on.
After a long descent, cross the river at 2360m on a cable suspension bridge high above the water. This is where you meet the road head, and your operator can arrange to have you picked up from here and driven down to Tashithang.