If you fancy sighting Jhomolhari and Jichu Drakey from up close, but nonetheless want to avoid the tiring slog all the way to Lingzhi, this trek is just right for you. While it’s possible to return from Jangothang to Drugyel Dzong by the same route taken on the way up, most trekkers choose to take an alternate route described here, which is less strenuous then the classic Jhomolhari trek and can be completed in less time. Despite its relative ease, however, be warned that this route still goes up to an elevation that could cause altitude problems.
DAYS 1-4: Drukgyel Dzong to Jangothang
Follow days 1 to 4 of the main Jhomolhari trek.
DAY5: JANGOTHANG TO SOI YAKSA
16KM/6-7 HOURS/810M ASCENT, 1090 DESCENT
From Jangothang, the return trail initially leads north to the last settlement in the valley, before dropping to the Paro Chhu, crossing it on a wooden bridge. After crossing the river, you begin a gradual climb, following a set of sharp switchbacks for about 300m up the side of the hill. Along the way, you can get fabulous views of the Jhomolhari, Jhomolhari 2, Jichu Drakye and Tsherim Kang if the weather is good. From here, it’s a relatively easy and smooth hike all the way to a large crique nestling the lakes of Tshophu(4380m), a pair of splendid high-altitude water bodies, inhabited by a flock of ruddy shelducks and known to foster a healthy population of brown trout deep in their placid waters. While it’s possible to set up camp in between the two lakes , you could always carry on along the trail, which now climbs high above the eastern side of the first lake , passes the second lake along the way and finally climbs across a scree slope to the crest of a ridge. From here, it descends into a hidden valley , before climbing steeply to Bhonte La at 4890m, the highest point on this route.
Descending from Bhonte La, the route now runs past a scree slope, and then winds down a ridge with a lot of crisscrossing yak trails . Finally, it switchbacks down to the Soi Yaksa valley(also known asDhumzo Chhu valley), a beautiful setting for a camp at 3800m with rocky cliffs, wildflower meadows, a few nomadic settlements and a waterfall at the end of the valley. All through this day, keep your eyes trained on the wilderness for a host of regional wildlife, such as blue sheep, golden marmots, and the exclusive snow leopard.
DAY6: SOI YAKSA TO THOMBU SHONG
11KM/4-5 HOURS/720M ASCENT. 340M DESCENT
Starting out from camp, today’s walk initially takes you past hillsides lush with a crop of azalea and rhododendron, before gradually climbing above the tree line. You will also cross forests of birch and oak on the way. The trail ascends about 100m over a ridge, before dropping to a meadow with a chorten and a mani wall, cross the stream on a wooden bridge, and follow the trail heading up the hill side. Not long after, it drops into a small side valley, before emerging onto a ridge. Here the small trail bifurcates, and it can be quite confusing since both the treks look very similar. Don’t go left- this route will eventually take you to Lalung la, a pass that leads on to an extremely roundabout way back to Drugyel Dzong. Go right instead. The track will first take you through a wooded area, and then climb steeply for about an hour, ascending past a few huts and chortens to Takhung La(4520m). Spectacular views the Jhomolhari, Jichu Drakye and Tserim Kang can be seen from the pass, and on a clear day, the formidable Kanchenjunga(8586m) can be sighted far awayon the western horizon.
From Takhung La, the trail holds out for a while, before gradually meandering down to Thombu Shong(4180m). It’s a grassy pasture dotted with three yak herders’ huts, and has traditionally been used by animal herders as a campsite through various times of the year.
Day 7: Thombu Shong to Sharna Zampa
13km/ 4-5 hours/ 200m Ascent, 1650 Descent
After breaking camp, follow the trail leading out of the valley through a marshy patch. From here, the well-defined track suddenly begins to gain elevation, and climbs steeply for a god 200m. This hike can prove tiring, especially since you now have an entire week’s vigorous trekking behind you, although you will have adjusted well to the altitude by now, if that’s any consolation. All along, you will be traversing through a gloriously beautiful garden of wildflowers, also rich with a crop of rhododendron, which is especially breathtaking through late spring and summer. At the end of the climb, cross over Thombu La at 4380m, where the trail eventually exits the valley. Stop here for a last good look at Kanchenjunga and Drakye Gang (5200m), among other peaks.
On the other side of Thombu La, the trail begins to amble down steeply through upland forest, and the long descend ahead can prove to be rather brutal on your knees. Leading down from the pass, the total loss in elevation all the way to the final campsite of the trek is a whooping 1800m, all within a span of about three hours. The first part of the descent is gradual, winding down to about 4000m, after which the trail makes a steep descent, zigzagging down the ridge through wildflower bushes, mostly edelweiss, before finally reaching the helipad at Gunitsawa (2730m). You can either camp here or – if you are looking for a quieter experience – cross the river and go upstream to camp at Sharna Zampa (2580m), the same place where you pitched tent on Day 1.
Day 8: Sharna Zampa to Drukgyel Dzong
17km/ 4-6 hours/ 80m Ascent, 360m Descent
Follow the itinerary of the Day 1 of the Jhomolhari trek in the reverse direction to Drukgyel Dzong.