Much of this treks charm has been compromised in recent times due to the construction of a feeder road running parallel to (and, at times, criss-crossing) the route, connecting Phobjikha to neighbouring valleys. Nonetheless, it’s recommended as a spring trek, especially around April, when blooming rhododendrons make it a particularly enjoyable excursion.

DAY 1: PHOBJIKHA TO ZASA
15KM/ 6-7HOURS / 610M ASCENT. 410M DESCENT

The trek starts near the village of Tabitang, just before Black Mountain National park Wardens office at 2890m. Go uphill beside a stream, and climb through blue pines to Kelwang, a scrub bamboo meadow at 3120m. The trail then gently ascends through pines and rhododendrons to Tesle La at 3430m.

From the past, descend into the kangkha Chhu valley and traverse to Tsele Pang (3280m). Descend further into a forest of cypress, juniper, rhododendron and daphne(the plant used for handmade paper) to the small village of Tserina at 3120m. Its then long traverse through forests to a few houses at Gogona(3090m).

Gogona Lhakhang is dominated by statues of Chenresing, Atisha and several manifestation of Guru Rinpoche. The walls are covered with elaborate paintings and on the gorikha(porch) is a painting of lama Drukpa Kunley. Camping is not allowed at monastery, so trek around the ridge to the pretty village of Dangchhu (3040m).

The women here weave blankets and speak a different dialect called Bjop-Kha(language of nomads). A small campsite sits near the head of grassy valley beside a small steam in the yak pasture called Zasa(3130m). Larger groups usually camp at Dzomdu Gyakha or near the  cheese factory at Sha Gogona.

DAY 2: ZASA TO CHORTEN KARPO
16KM/ 5-7HOURS / 450M ASCENT. 860M DESCENT

The trial leads up the meadow above Zasa, entering a forest of fir, oak, spruce, dwarf rhododendron, miniature azalea, cypress and juniper. Climb for about two hour to a crest at 3360m, then again for another minutes to Shobe La, a forested ridge marked by a rock cairn at 3480m.

Descend to join a rough forest road at 2970m. The trek to the Tashila ropeway strays on and off this road, used by tractors to transport timber. Cross a stream and take a few short cuts through an oak forest to arrive at Dolando, with an isolated sawmill and wooden houses at 2790m. The road makes a small detour around a rock that is said to be remains on demon. If you look closely you may be able to see the marks left when Guru Rinpoche beat the demon with his stick. Follow the road alongside at the stream, crossing to river right at 2730m, and continue to another sawmill near Gangri Chi village at 2670m. Below this village of Kokotkha, with about 60 houses.

Atop at ridge to the southwest is the large Rinchenling monastery. High above to the south is the Dola Goemba. The route turns north here and follows the small Paza Chhu, then climbs over a ridge on a narrow trail, recrosses the road and climbs gently to Chorten Karpo, four chortens in a forest of blue pines at 2680m. The Nepali chorten is in honour of a Je khenpo. the second one commemorates a rich merchant from Kokotkha; next is a kani (archlike chorten) with its middle filled in; the southernmost chorten was built by a flour merchant from Kokotkha.

 

DAY3: CHORTEN KARPO TO TIKKE ZAMPA
12KM/ 4-5 HOURS/ 120 ASCENT. 1340M DESCENT

Climb from camp to join the forest road at 2720m, and gently hike to the ridge top at 2800m. If possible, continue a few minutes to of the Tashila ropeway(p97) and watch rise and building supplies coming up and logs going down. It’s not officially allowed, but you may be able to get ride down the 6km- long cableway and save yourself a knee-cracking descent.

The walk down is through a beautiful forest, where the vegetation gradually changes from rhododendrons and magnolias to ferns and dwarf bamboo. Experts claim that this stretch of trail is one of the finest bird-watching area in Bhutan. Among the birds found are laughing thrushes, shrikes, magpies and woodpeckers.

There’s a trail junction at 2250m. Take the right-hand fork and go down until you reach the houses and fields of Wachay at about 1880m. Traversing through fields and farmyards, the trail finally plunges past steep terraced wheat fields to two shops at 1460m on the road about 300m east of the bridge at Tikke Zampa.

Highlight

THE TREK AT A GLANCE

Duration 3 days

Max Elevation 3280m

Difficulty Easy

Season March to May, September to November

Start Phobjikha

Finish Tikke Zampa

Access Town Phobjikha, Wangdue Phodrang

Summary A short trek at relatively low elevations, visiting several remote villages and monasteries, and offering building opportunities.

 

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