This is another trek that is fast losing popularity due to the construction of roads in the region. Although it is short itinerary, the Bumthang trek is strenuous in sections, and packs in a tiring 500m climb to Phephe La at 3360m. This trek is usually possible from March to May and again from September to November. The start is a 3km drive up the unpaved road from Kurjey Lhakhang to Toktu Zampa at 2540m, then a short drive to Thangbi Goemba. With luck, packhorses will be waiting and you can start walking with minimal delay.
DAY 1: THANGBI GOENBA TO SAMBITHANG
10KM / 2-3HOURS / 170M ASCENT
Although it’s possible to drive up the valley, most groups choose to start this trek at Thangbi Goenba(see p122 from a brief description), with this distinctive yellow roof, near the small village of Thangbi.
The trail now courses a broad ledge above the river past a 70m-long painted mani wall and khonying with a mandala painted on roof inside. Just beyond the arched chorten is a trail junction. Take the trail leading to a suspension bridge across the Bumthang chhu(known locally as the Choskhar Chhu). Follow the left band of river through pleasant meadows and forest of blue pine and scrub.
After an hour, you pass the Zangling Lhakhang on the hill to the right. From here its 15 minutes to a trail junction next to a Chorten and prayer wheels. Fifteen minutes down a right branch it’s the campsite at Sambithang. The left branch leads to Ngang Lhakhang( Swal Temple). It’s located about 30 minutes above near a settlement of old-looking houses 2800m. There are two water-driven prayer wheels; the water comes down and interesting sluiceway of carved wooden pipes. For more information on this interesting temple, see p122.
DAY 2: SAMBITHANG TO OGYEN CHHOLING
15 km / 6.7 hours / 570M ASCENT 650M DECENT
The day’s walk starts out across meadows with lots of dwarf bamboo and several little streams to cross. The trail cuts across the top of the some field. Soon, the trial starts climbing, cutting back and forth across a stream on slippery logs and stones, Bitches, sycamores, dwarf bamboo and lots of tall bamboo from cold, sunless forest, Spanish moss drapes the ancient trees, giving an eerie feel to the steep climb.
Finally, The stream disappears and the climb continuous through a rhododendron forest in a dry gully to rock cairn and a little stone shrine. Tattered prayer flags stretched across the path atop Phephe La(3360m), on a forested ridge with big birch and fir hills.
Going downhill, the route then approaches the base of the valley, with several side trails leading to pastures and buckwheat’s fields, The most prominent trail downhill to a large stream and a wooden bridge at 2790m near the village of Tahung. From Tahung, time permitting, you can take a detour left, and embark on a four hour return trek to the remote thowadrak hermitage. Perched high on the rocks, it’s belived to date back to Guru Rinpoche’s time. Behind Tahung is Australian assisted Wobtang sheep development project. A rough tractor road follows the right banks of the village down the valley. The route leads downstream in meadows next to the river. Crossing the stream on a road bridge, it turns a corner onto the main valley of the tang chhu at 2640m.
Cross the Tang Chhu near Gamling, large, wealthy villages noted for its yathra weaving, about 45 minutes downstream. The trail crosses a stream, goes around a farm yard, and then climbs onto a ridge, reaching four chortens and several large houses at 2760m. Ogyen Chholing s atop the hill to the right. You can camp near the palace or splurge on a room in the guesthouse. For more information about Ogyen Chholing Palance and its fascinating museum, see p125.
DAY 3: OGYEN CHHOLING TO KIZUM
16km / 1HOUR / 130M DESCENT
It’s short walk downhill to Kizum where your vehicle should be waiting to pick you up. From here, it’s a 25km drive to the junction of the road near Membartsho.